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Mathienzo Selección Especial
Yerba Mate Review
9 minutes to read
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If you are an experienced yerba mate aficionado, there is not that much choice for a complex artisanal yerba, compared to mainstream brands that are more readily available but are designed for mass appeal. And that is fine — personally, I cannot drink on a daily basis a complex mate that deserves to be enjoyed very consciously to appreciate its nuances. However, if you are in search for such yerba mate, or you want to really experience the true complexity that this drink can offer — you have to try Mathienzo Selección Especial. And even if you don’t care for the extra complexity, you will find a perfectly balanced exemplary Argentine con palo yerba mate, that feels very deliberately designed and deserving of its special selection title.
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First look
Nose
The aroma of Mathienzo Selección Especial is absolutely mesmerizing.
Even a slight whiff of the opened bag is enough to get the full bouquet of fragrant smells, and a strong deep one may even overpower you with the richness of its nose.
That’s what 24 months of aging does to yerba mate — I get woodsycedary notes; a lot of spices, like nutmeg and vanilla, and even some hints of cocoa and nutty notes in the aroma of Mathienzo Selección Especial.
The nose is very sweet, but it is a very sophisticated and almost noble sweetness.
The bag of Mathienzo Selección Especial indicates a light toasted tinge to it, and I agree — it’s not smoky or tobaccoey, but smells in the same fashion as what a light roast does to coffee or hazelnuts, or even how experienced chefs roast their spices to bring out aromatics.
This yerba mate smells like that, as if that light toast brought the already fragrant and complex aromatics to a whole new level.
Cut
Looking at the cut of Mathienzo Selección Especial it’s easy to see where that light toasted tinge comes from — inclusions of slightly brownish leaves are all over this yerba mate.
It’s not a full-blown tostada though, and is actually quite saturated and green for yerba mate that has been aged for a whopping 24 months.
Not as green and vibrant as Brazilian unaged erva mate, but still, it seems like that light toast was done before the aging, during the sapecado stage, as a way to preserve some of that color.
Other than that, Mathienzo Selección Especial is a con palo yerba mate, and judging by the look and feel of its cut it leans more into the stems and the dust, compared to average Argentine yerba mate.
The leaves are obviously there, but at least visually they are dominated by small to medium ground stems and abundant powder that makes Mathienzo Selección Especial quite airy and fluffy.
Special selection in its name also indicates that this yerba mate was carefully and meticulously blended, so the composition and the proportions of the main components of elaborated yerba mate — leaves, stems and powder — were a deliberate choice of Mathienzo.
Preparation
Even though on paper Mathienzo Selección Especial is a con palo yerba mate, the higher than average dust content, combined with frequent stems ensured an interesting and unique preparation experience.
All that fluffy dust present in the cut of this yerba mate absorbs water extremely well — every time I did the initial pour of lukewarm water, I always came back to it being completely absorbed by yerba, with absolutely no water left in the water hole.
It’s almost like Mathienzo Selección Especial inevitably builds the mountain of yerba for you!
I even found myself not really tamping and molding the mountain after the initial preparation, that’s how well it stayed together, even after five and ten refills.
You might think now that all that water-absorbing dust will easily clog the bombilla, but that’s where the stems come into play.
When properly shaken upside down before adding agua tibia, stems end up at the bottom of the gourd, while small fractions such as dust and tiny leaf particles stay on top, thereby preventing the filter of bombilla, which also rests at the bottom of the gourd, from being clogged.
When it comes to the temperature of water, on the bag of its yerba mate Mathienzo suggested to use
70° Cto82° C/160° Fto180° F, but after trying this mate with various hotness of water I disagree with such recommendation.
In my experience, water that is
80° C/175° Fand higher disrupts the balance of Mathienzo Selección Especial, both in terms of its taste, which becomes overwhelming at first and suddenly flavorless towards the end, and its durability, which becomes significantly shorter.
At
70° Cto75° C/160° Fto165° F, this mate tastes much more balanced and even, however, it is at
60° C-65° C/140° F-150° Fwhere I found the perfect temperature for Mathienzo Selección Especial.
Such low temperature in my opinion preserves those gentle and subtle flavors that this mate has to offer and allows you to really embrace its true complexity and enjoy a nice evolution of flavors.
As a bonus, I also managed to get the most refills from Mathienzo Selección Especial at lower ranges of water temperature.
When prepared with the right temperature, this mate is an absolute treat.
It’s not anything weird or out of ordinary — at its heart, Mathienzo Selección Especial still has that classic, familiar yet comforting aged Argentine mate taste.
The balance between sweetness and bitterness is fantastic — not too sugary to become off-putting, and not too astringent to make you want to chase it with water.
At first, Mathienzo Selección Especial is quite vegetal, even a little sour, like a semi-dry apple.
I also get woodsy notes, like oak and cedar.
As I go through refills this mate becomes more subtle and mild.
Approaching the halfway mark, it’s getting light and milky, still vegetal and pleasant, like a sweet green tea with milk.
As its nose, it’s also slightly nutty and chocolatey.
You will understand when it’s time to turn the yerba when it will become too light and mild, and since the solid mountain will stay in place throughout all those refills and will not allow you to flood the mate easily, you will have no other choice than to shift all the yerba to the opposite side, which will reveal a still almost completely dry and untouched side, ready to be refilled and sipped.
This maneuver reinvigorates the flavors of Mathienzo Selección Especial; I start noticing other notes and flavors that were not present in the first half of this mate — prunes and raisins, pipe tobacco with light smokiness, surprisingly appearing out of nowhere, cherry pit, and even black pepper.
Despite being quite dusty, Mathienzo Selección Especial never gains any substantial body throughout the drinking session, and always remains crisp, light and clear.
As I head toward the end of drinking session, milky green tea notes make a comeback, and mate finally relaxes its stiff structure and allows me to fully flood it and extract the taste from all the yerba in the gourd.
Finish
The aftertaste of Mathienzo Selección Especial also does not disappoint, and continues the complexity set by the initial taste of this mate.
Nutty and woodsy notes dominate the finish of Mathienzo Selección Especial, with hazelnut and cherry pit being the most prominent ones.
It also has its fair share of bitterness and slight acidity, while the sweetness is the first thing to disappear after swallowing the sip.
The finish of Mathienzo Selección Especial somewhat reminds me of sipping on some nice bourbon, with those darker and brown notes.
The last thing I want to mention about the aftertaste of this mate is how long and lingering it is.
I can taste those flavors for a few minutes after a sip, which allows me to really ponder and appreciate the gourmet factor of Mathienzo Selección Especial.
Surprisingly, such a pronounced and lasting finish does not make this mate less drinkable, and I enjoyed sipping it even at a fast pace without feeling that my taste buds are getting overwhelmed.
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Durability
At
60° Cto65° C/140° Fto150° Fyou can expect the longest durability that Mathienzo Selección Especial has to offer.
The spread in refill values however was quite large — sometimes I was able to get 25 refills, bordering on the long durability territory, but sometimes it was 20 and even 18 refills, making it a moderate durability mate.
At
70° C-75° C/160° F-165° FMathienzo Selección Especial was more stable, and I managed to get around 18 refills on average.
If you decide to go with water that is hotter than
80° C/175° F, even though I don’t recommend it for taste reasons, you can only expect a short durability from this mate — 11 refills on average from my experience.
As I mentioned earlier, colder water also offers a nice evolution of flavors throughout the duration of drinking, and unless you brew Mathienzo Selección Especial at
80° C/175° Fand higher, lavado comes gradually and naturally, leaving behind a slightly sweet, warm and comfortable mate for a few final sips.
The last thing you want while drinking mate is to constantly re-heat your water or add more ice to it.
No matter if it's hot mate or cold tereré,
use a
vacuum bottle
or a very popular in South America
mate thermos
with spout.
Effect
After drinking Mathienzo Selección Especial consecutively for a few weeks, I am really surprised with effects it had on me, even though I’m used to experiencing the health and mental benefits that any yerba mate provides.
During and after drinking this mate I noticed myself having an endless stream of thoughts — random ideas, stuff from long time ago suddenly popping up in my head, and so on.
It was actually quite hard to just sit and drink Mathienzo Selección Especial and appreciate its flavors and nuances, as I constantly was distracted by another new thought coming to me.
If you actually forcefully guide that stream of ideas into something purposeful, like a deep work or study, this mate can be an immensely helpful companion.
For instance, I really enjoyed sipping on Mathienzo Selección Especial while doing some coding and design that required creative approaches and thinking outside the box.
It also provided that needed caffeine and energy that was needed after some nights where I had a poor sleep.
In the evening however drinking Mathienzo Selección Especial was quite a disaster!
The levels of energy it provided along with those endless thoughts meant that I couldn’t properly unwind and relax, and sipping on this mate before bed actually caused some of those sleepless nights.
Luckily, I didn’t experience any physical jitters or heartburn that you can sometimes get from too much coffee or energy drinks.
Anyway, Mathienzo Selección Especial is in my opinion a great morning pick-me-up mate and great afternoon companion for some creative work, but be extra cautious with it in the second half of the day, and better not risk drinking it in the evening.
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Agua tibia
Literally translates as tepid water from Spanish, and means a lukewarm or room temperature water that you add first during traditional preparation of mate.
Although considered by some materos as an unnecessary step, adding agua tibia to mate wets the yerba mate and allows it to be molded into a mountain of yerba.
Adding lukewarm water also is believed to protect the yerba mate from being scalded by hot water, which softens its taste and saves its desirable nutrients.
Characteristic, used to define the tactile feel of mate in the mouth, similar to other gourmet products, like wine or coffee.
It includes the mouthfeel of the drink, its thickness and weight.
Cut of yerba mate, drying methods and aging all contribute to the body of mate.
Usually, body can be described as light, medium and full — the more thick and dense mate feels in the mouth, the more full body it has.
Special drinking straw with a filtration system in the lower end of it.
Usually made from metal or hollow-stemmed cane.
Bombilla is used for drinking mate traditionally from a gourd.
With stems in Spanish.
Con palo is a type of yerba mate cut which is characterized by presence of stems, or palos in Spanish.
Usually mate brewed with con paloyerba mate is more light and sweet than mate prepared from sin palo cut.
Very popular in Argentina and Paraguay.
In Argentina, according to point 2.1 of the article 1194 of Argentine Food Code, con paloyerba mate should contain no less than 65% of dried leaves, coarsely ground or pulverized, and no more than 35% of coarsely or finely ground stems and sticks.
Pronounced [ER-vah MAH-tshee].
Yerba mate in Portuguese.
In general, term erva mate is used to describe a Brazilian type of yerba mate, which has a distinctive fine cut and almost no aging, which contributes to its very bright fresh green color.
Erva mate is used to prepare chimarrão — Brazilian version of mate drink.
Act of completely flooding mate with water, including the mountain of yerba.
Usually done in the end of drinking mate to get the last remaining flavors from yerba.
A vessel used for drinking mate traditionally.
Usually it is made from a real dried calabash gourd, or calabaza in Spanish, hence the name.
Today the term gourd is used not only to describe a calabash vessel, but any other cup from which mate is being drank (wooden, metal, ceramic, etc.).
Spanish adjective which means washed.
Lavado is used as a term to point out that all the flavors “washed away” from mate and it becomes tasteless at the end of the drinking session.
The more refills yerba mate can take before becoming lavado, the longer durability it has.
Pronounced [MAH-teh].
Traditional South American caffeine-rich infused drink, very popular in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay and Southern Brazil (the term chimarrão is used there more often).
It is prepared by steeping dried leaves of yerba mate in the gourd.
Sometimes the gourd itself is referred to as mate.
When mate is prepared traditionally, a mountain of yerba is yerba that is located inside the gourd in form of slope, that is exposed to hot water while drinking.
Proper mountain of yerba will be always half-dry and half-wet, which results in more balanced and long mate.
On the opposite side of mountain is the water hole.
A roasted or toasted yerba mate.
Popular in Brazil, the process of roasting is very similar to coffee (also one of the Brazilian signature beverages).
Roasting is done to add chocolate and nutty notes to yerba mate, as well as enhance its energizing effect.
Act of moving the mountain of yerba to the opposite side, revealing the dry slope of yerba.
Turning the yerba is used while drinking mate traditionally, when it starts to become tasteless on one side and is usually performed with bombilla.
The final result of turning is new mountain of yerba with dry slope that can be refilled with water to get more fresh taste from yerba mate.
An empty space inside the gourd, that is created by moving all yerba mate to one side when building a mountain of yerba during the traditional preparation.
Water is poured into the waterhole to draw flavor from yerba that is facing it.
Pronounced [YER-bah MAH-teh] (or [SHER-bah MAH-teh] in Rioplatense Spanish).
Also known as Ilex paraguariensis, a holly plant natively grown in South America, particularly in Northern Argentina, Paraguay and Southern Brazil (the term erva mate is used there more often).
Yerba mate is used to make a beverage known as mate in Spanish, or chimarrão in Portuguese.
Often, the term yerba mate is used to describe not only a plant, but also a final product of grinding, drying and aging the plant.